“Everything leads to the Acropolis, in the same way everything starts with the Acropolis. Destruction and construction lay side by side on the sacred rock. The pathways that lead to it come from all the cities of the world. Each city returning a fragment of what originated here”
– Alberta Ferlenga, exhibit Emst Gallery
Of Goddesses and Grafitti: My Love Affair with Athens
Here I spent a dreamy month working remotely, and in all honesty – feeling at home again on the road.
As one of the world’s oldest and most dynamic cities, Athens never fails to impress. With a fascinating history and a vibrant modern culture, it’s no surprise that the Greek capital is experiencing a renaissance. After a tumultuous decade, Athens has emerged as southern Europe’s capital of cool, attracting cosmopolitan jet-setters, digital nomads and honeymooners alike from all over the world.
And yet compared to other hotspots like Lisbon and Barcelona, Athen’s remains pretty lowkey in the digital nomad space.
As a remote worker myself, I was initially lured to Athens by its affordable rent, endless sunshine, and anarchic spirit. In this city, conformity is out, and creativity is in. The architecture reflects this spirit, blending Byzantine and Bauhaus, neoclassical and then imagine plastering graffiti all over it. Chaos and decaying beauty reigns supreme on the streets, and life is messy, but that’s all part of Athens’ charm.
The Parthenon still dominates the skyline, reminding visitors that all roads lead to Athens. However, it’s the city’s hidden gems that truly capture the heart and soul of Athens. The backstreets, adorned with graffiti and filled with the aroma of freshly baked pastries, coffee and the European favourite – the occasional cigarette, offer a glimpse into the city’s iconic past and present. Art galleries and bars are tucked away in unexpected places, waiting to be discovered by adventurous souls.
Athens is a true gem and one I advocate hugely for remote workers. Spend your days cafe hopping, marvelling at the Acropolis while indulging in rich food, and gazing upon the hazy pink hue that sweeps across the city just before sunset.
It’s not polished, nor pristine by any means – but it stole my heart in the way all great loves do.
So, without further ado here’s…
7 Reasons to Fall in Love with Athens
1. The Sunshine: A Warm Welcome to Athens Awaits You
In the age-old debate of sun versus shade, I find myself unequivocally aligned with the former. While some may possess the resilience to bear the relentless grey skies of my motherland (the United Kingdom), I simply can’t resist basking in the warm, golden rays of the sun.
It’s not just a matter of preference though, for me personally, I’m a happier soul in warmer climate. It’s like an instinctual longing I have to be wrapped in the soothing embrace of the sunshine. Perhaps this is something I should analyse more, but in the meantime, SPF in hand – I’ll always be a sun child.
And what better destination to indulge than a city that’s graced with more than 250 days of sunshine per year!
And if you do love a winter novelty, fear not! Athens still experiences all seasons. Autumn and Winter are milder than Northern Europe but you can still enjoy the pleasure of putting together a cozy jumper and boots combo.
2. Freddo Coffee: The Iced Espresso That Defines Athens’ Cafe Culture
Some say a trip to Athens should start with the Acropolis, but I firmly believe all trips anywhere should start with good coffee. Luckily, Athens is an oasis for coffee lovers, with options to suit everyone.
However, one chilled coffee concoction reigns supreme – The Freddo Espresso
This refreshing heavily super-caffeinated elixir is an espresso-based iced coffee, crowned with a signature frothy topping. Believe it or not though, it’s not an ancient Greek thing. It’s actually a modern coffee that rose to popularity in the 90s, and has since stayed iconic.
If for some crazy reason you want to consume this coffee without added sweetness, I strongly recommend you don’t. There’s rocket fuel and then there’s an unsweetened Fredo. Instead, live a little and indulge in the traditional sugar syrup recipe for the ultimate sensory experience. Additionally, you can also specify the level of sweetness you prefer by asking for “metrio” (medium sugar) or “gliko” (sweet). I always go medium!
To flex some basic Greek, you can order by simply saying, “Ena Freddo me metria glykita, parakalo” (Ένα Freddo με μέτρια γλυκύτητα, παρακαλώ). This translates to “One Freddo with medium sweetness, please”.
Master this phrase and that’s half your interactions sorted.
When I wasn’t working, I’d take every break I could at a local cafe, scribbling in my journal.
Some of my favourite cafes include;
Philos, Kolonaki
- Vibe: Shabby chic townhouse in upscale Kolonaki.
- Highlights: Curated selection of unique merchandise, egg-based breakfasts, and creamy cappuccinos.
- Proximity: A stone’s throw from the National Gardens and Lycabettus Hill.
- Location: Solonos 32, Athina 106 73.
- Contact: +30 21 0361 9163 | philosathens.com
The Underdog
- Vibe: Elegant city villa turned brunch haven and lively cocktail bar. Perfect for remote working as it’s super laptop friendly.
- Highlights: Signature brunch dishes, in-house coffee roasting, and an extensive craft beer and cocktail menu.
- Website: underdog.gr
Samba Coffee Roasters, Kolonaki
- Vibe: Stylish roastery with a breezy mezzanine and streetside hatch.
- Highlights: Diverse coffee menu, expert baristas, and a must-try basque cheesecake.
- Location: Solonos 36, Athina 106 73.
- Contact: +30 21 0363 7283 | sambacafe.gr
Vryssaki, Vrisakiou
- Vibe: Rustic two-story house near the Acropolis, radiating with cultural energy. Any seat in the house guarantees you a relaxing experience but my favourite it to perch myself on the terrace. Amazing cheesecake here too!
- Highlights: Regular art exhibitions, concerts, plays, and a cozy cafe for refreshments.
- Location: Vrisakiou 17, Athens, Greece, 10555.
- Contact: +30 21 0321 0179 | artfix.gr/vryssaki
If you want to know 5 unusual facts about drinking coffee in Athens from a locals perspective then check this article here.
3. Purrfect Athens: Embracing the Feline Rich Culture of Greece’s Capital City
As soon as you start to stroll the vibrant streets of Athens, you’ll notice the feline fever that dominates the city. You can’t move for cats. From the winding alleyways of Plaka to the bustling squares of Monastiraki, these feline friends are everywhere, prowling the streets with an air of nonchalant confidence.
Stray or pets? Who knows, but they’re dotted on every corner in little gangs – a pussy riot of sorts. As a solo traveller the first time I visited it wasn’t uncommon to find my dinner date each night had whiskers and a tail.
These cats are the true rulers of Athens, and they do not shy away from flaunting their freedom and independence.
Just be aware of the hygiene element if you decide to touch them. I love cats, but I don’t love the parasites stray ones often carry.
4. The Contemporary Art Scene
To my biased brain, Athens in itself is a work of art – dripping with spray paint and renaissance architecture.
EMST: Where Modern Meets Magic
Nestled in a former brewery, the National Museum of Contemporary Art, Athens (EMST) is the city’s nod to the contemporary. It’s a playground for art enthusiasts! From thought-provoking installations to vibrant paintings, EMST delivers on it’s promise to intrigue.
Street Art: Athens’ Open-Air Gallery
It’s love or hate for most people. One man’s vandalism is another mans art. A huge part of Athen’s appeal to me was the vibrant murals and paint splattered walls that adorn the city. Each image or tag telling a story, echoing the city’s heartbeat and rebellious energy.
5. Gastronomical Delights at Every Turn
Athenians have a deep-rooted love for dining out, and dining out LATE. The city pulsates with life, from quick kerbside souvlaki stops to leisurely evenings of meze and tsipouro. The beauty of Athens lies in its blend of traditional tavernas and innovative Greek bistros.
Now, a little secret I must share! I’ve dined at a myriad of establishments in Athens, from the acclaimed to the obscure. Yet, time and again, I find myself irresistibly drawn back to a modest hidden gem, To Kousoulo. Tucked away on Iraklidon street in the Thissio district, this family-run restaurant is but a stone’s throw from the city’s iconic landmarks.
And it wasn’t just me; my two travel friends who traveled with me the second and third time echoed my sentiments. We found ourselves returning to To Kousoulo multiple times during our stay last summer, each visit reaffirming our belief that sometimes, the most authentic flavors are found off the beaten path.
Order the Fete me Meli (feta cheese wrapped in phyllo pastry, drizzled with honey) and you won’t regret it!
But of course, you must try other places too…
Must-Try Dishes and Where to Find Them
- Vezené: A pioneer in the modern Greek bistro scene, Vezené offers a unique twist on traditional dishes. Don’t miss their reimagined stuffed tomatoes and pastitsio.
- 📍 Vrasida 11, Athina 115 28
- 🌐 vezene.gr
- Akra: Dive into a world of flavors with dishes like marinated vine shoots and roast courgettes stuffed with fish cheeks.
- 📍 Amynta 12, Pangrati 11635
- Annie: A true representation of the new Athenian dining scene, Annie offers dishes like ‘Burnt vegetables’ and a delightful vegan menu.
- 📍 Menechmou 4, Neos Kosmos 11743
- 🌐 anniefinecooking.gr
6. Vouliagmeni Lake: Athen’s Hidden Oasis
Want to escape the city?
Just a short taxi ride out of Athen’s city centre lies a sanctuary that defies time: Vouliagmeni Lake.
A Timeless Retreat
Nestled on the Athenian Riviera, a mere 20 kilometers from the city’s vibrant heart, Vouliagmeni Lake is a geological wonder. This brackish-water lake, fed by both the sea and an underground hot spring, boasts therapeutic properties. Its mineral-rich waters, maintaining a consistent temperature between 22 to 29 degrees Celsius year-round, have long been sought after for their healing attributes, particularly for ailments like musculoskeletal disorders and dermatological conditions.
The ecosystem in the lake here thrives with unique species, including the enigmatic “Doctor Fish” of the Garra Rufa variety. These small inhabitants offer natural exfoliation, playfully nibbling at visitors’ feet, providing a spa-like experience that’s both delightful and therapeutic. For just 16€-19€ entry, it’s an experience you just HAVE to take. I recommend upgrading to the private Cabana for 70€ if there’s two of you for an even more luxurious experience.
In a city where history is palpable at every corner, this lake stands as a reminder of nature’s enduring magic.
Visiting Essentials
While Vouliagmeni Lake is a year-round destination, spring and autumn visits offer a delightful balance of pleasant weather and fewer crowds. The lake’s facilities are top-notch, with sunbeds, umbrellas, onsite restaurant, and a well-maintained environment ensuring a comfortable experience.
7. Romance on Philopappou Hill: Sunrise to Sunset
What’s the best vantage point in Athens? It’s hard to pick one, but Philopappou Hill is without a doubt the best if you’re wanting to get a bit more in touch with nature. Also known as the Hill of the Muses, it offers a serene escape with unparalleled views of the Parthenon, and the whole of Athens.
As you wander the footpaths, designed in the 1950s by architect Dimitris Pikionis using reclaimed stones and marble, you’ll be transported back in time. This tranquil haven boasts a myriad of historical gems, from a Byzantine chapel and an ancient quarry to a 19th-century observatory, home to a vintage telescope occasionally open for stargazing sessions.
But the true magic of Philopappou Hill lies in its hidden spots, perfect for a sunset picnic overlooking the Acropolis, or sunrise hike. The Pnyx, recognized as the world’s first democratic assembly where ancient Athenians passionately discussed politics, now offers a serene backdrop for a romantic evening.
Final Thoughts
It feels as if I could talk forever about my enduring love for this ancient city, but words can only capture so much. Athens is more than just a destination; it’s a feeling, an experience, a journey through time that everyone should take.
From its iconic landmarks to its hidden gems, from the warmth of its people to the richness of its culture, Athens beckons with open arms and promises memories that will last a lifetime. Whether you’re a history buff, a foodie, or simply someone seeking a unique city adventure, Athens has something to offer that will touch your soul if you’re open enough to let it.
So, if you haven’t yet, let yourself fall in love with Athens, and let it leave an indelible mark on your heart.
